Here is my plan for planting this year. The numbers refer to the week of the month, not the day of the month. I will amend the file as I go based on what happens, or if I change my mind.
Gourd, 1/15/11 - I planted some gourd seeds in a big planter in my grow room. They gro ridiculously well and with 2 feet of snow on the ground, it is nice to see a boisterous green plant going crazy.
Cumin, 1/15/11 - Spindly things are coming up. It's distressing to see leggy wisps coming up.
Dill, 1/15/11 - Spindly things are coming up. It's distressing to see leggy wisps coming up.
Cardamom Seed, 1/20/11. I just put this in some soil, half planting mix and half clay soil. Not sure it will grow but it is worth a shot.
Onion Jan 4 (later also)
Lambs Ears Feb 2
Leek Feb 2
Bells of Ireland feb 3
Savory, Summer and Winter, Feb 3
Sage Feb 3 (later also)
Star of the veld feb 3
Lupine feb 3
Globe amaranth feb 3
Cabbage feb 3
Coleus feb 4 (later also)
Echinacea feb 4
Eggplant feb 4
Kale feb 4
Poppy march 1
Paprika march 1
Fennel march 1
Marjoram march 1
Lavender march 1
Tulsi march 2
Hyssop march 2
Catnip March 2
Lovage march 2
Tomato march 2
Jalapeno march 2
Snapdragon march 3
Foxglove/digitalis march 3 (later also)
Carrot march 4 direct
Glycyrrhiza glabra/licorice march 4
Spinach march 4 direct
Radish march 4
Cumin march 4
Huckleberry march 4
Kohlrabi April 1
Tansy April 1
Burdock April 1
Sunflower downy april 1 direct (later also)
Lettuce april 1 direct
Pyrethrum april 1 direct (later also)
Nigella april 2
Cosmos april 2
Beet april 2 direct
Hollyhock april 3 direct
Chard april 3 direct
Onion april 3 direct
Oregano april 4 direct
Sunflower downy may 1 direct
Coleus may 1 direct
Foxglove/digitalis may 1
Dwarf Nasturtium May 1 Direct
Bok Choi May 1 Direct
Moonflower may 1 direct
Basil may 1 direct
Cilantro may 1 direct
Bean climbing may 1 direct
Kelway may 1 direct
Calendula may 1 direct
Pyrethrum may 1 direct
Sage may 1 direct
May 2 and later direct:
Ipomoea, white cypress vine
Okra
Zinnia
Borage
Watermelon
Squash
chomomile
Thursday, January 20, 2011
Sunday, January 16, 2011
Warre Bees
So in 2009 I combined my holistic way of looking at the world with a Langstroth beehive design and guess what I got? Dead bees. I got the whole rig including a nuc of bees from a local guy who is 110 years old and has been beeing for a long time. Even written a book. He recommends all the "normal" stuff including lots of drugs and sugar for the bees. I ignored the drugs and sugar, and my bees starved to death by October. It was a bad year for nectar but still...
So last winter I did some more research and came upon the Warre system. The hive boxes and smaller and I decided to try again using top bars with frames in the top box, and top bars only in the second and third boxes. No foundation whatsoever. It makes sense to let the bees decide exactly how big to make their comb. I have resigned myself to destroying comb to get the honey, and harvesting the wax as well.
I received the bees in early April, installed them in the two hives four feet apart, two feet off the ground. Everything is made of cedar. The bottom of the boxes is a screen, open to the ground and to airflow, and it allows for the junk to fall out instead of collecting there. I can also look up in the hive to see the activity.
Activity was brisk all summer. I did feed them sugar in the Spring to ease their transition and help them to build some comb, and I fed them again in the early Fall when the nectar was running dry. Activity fell off and as far as I can tell, they are still alive in there now in January. I provided no insulation and remember the bottom is open except for a screen.
I will let you know how it turns out.
So last winter I did some more research and came upon the Warre system. The hive boxes and smaller and I decided to try again using top bars with frames in the top box, and top bars only in the second and third boxes. No foundation whatsoever. It makes sense to let the bees decide exactly how big to make their comb. I have resigned myself to destroying comb to get the honey, and harvesting the wax as well.
I received the bees in early April, installed them in the two hives four feet apart, two feet off the ground. Everything is made of cedar. The bottom of the boxes is a screen, open to the ground and to airflow, and it allows for the junk to fall out instead of collecting there. I can also look up in the hive to see the activity.
Activity was brisk all summer. I did feed them sugar in the Spring to ease their transition and help them to build some comb, and I fed them again in the early Fall when the nectar was running dry. Activity fell off and as far as I can tell, they are still alive in there now in January. I provided no insulation and remember the bottom is open except for a screen.
I will let you know how it turns out.
Papaver
AKA: Poppy
Fedco says to direct seed right after the frost free date, in full sun. Other sources say to direct seed at spinach time, as soon as the soil can be worked, in soil that drains well. Mix the tiny seed with sand in order to disperse it more evenly. Cover with a thin layer of soil or leave uncovered on top – seeds need light to germinate. Poppies do not like to be transplanted. Put them in a bed where they won’t have to be moved, and the seeds can sow children for the following years.
Fedco says to direct seed right after the frost free date, in full sun. Other sources say to direct seed at spinach time, as soon as the soil can be worked, in soil that drains well. Mix the tiny seed with sand in order to disperse it more evenly. Cover with a thin layer of soil or leave uncovered on top – seeds need light to germinate. Poppies do not like to be transplanted. Put them in a bed where they won’t have to be moved, and the seeds can sow children for the following years.
Meconopsis Cambrica
AKA: Poppy, Himalyan Blue Poppy
Seed Savers: Chill seed for 3 weeks. Sow in winter in a good free-draining seed compost, covering the seed with a light sprinkling of compost. Place outdoors in a coldframe or sheltered area. Keep moist. Light frost is beneficial. Seeds should germinate in a bout 21 days. Leave for 5 weeks and then bring into a warmer area (60-70F). Once the seedlings have two real leaves, transplant them into 3” pots. Keep shaded. Once the plants are acclimatized transplant them outdoors into moist loam in a sheltered semi-shaded area. Here is my plan: Put the seed outside March 1 until March 21. Then sow in a pot or two, and put that outdoors in a sheltered place. In May, transplant to a sheltered and semi-shaded place, North or East side of a building, with good moisture and drainage.
Seed Savers: Chill seed for 3 weeks. Sow in winter in a good free-draining seed compost, covering the seed with a light sprinkling of compost. Place outdoors in a coldframe or sheltered area. Keep moist. Light frost is beneficial. Seeds should germinate in a bout 21 days. Leave for 5 weeks and then bring into a warmer area (60-70F). Once the seedlings have two real leaves, transplant them into 3” pots. Keep shaded. Once the plants are acclimatized transplant them outdoors into moist loam in a sheltered semi-shaded area. Here is my plan: Put the seed outside March 1 until March 21. Then sow in a pot or two, and put that outdoors in a sheltered place. In May, transplant to a sheltered and semi-shaded place, North or East side of a building, with good moisture and drainage.
Lavandula Angustifolia
AKA: Lavenders, Hidcote Blue Lavender
Planting: Seed Savers says to sow seeds indoors just beneath surface of soil. Success is greatly improved if seeds are placed with soil into a plastic bag and refrigerated for 4-6 weeks. Once removed from the cooler, place in an area that is between 55-65F. Plant out after danger of frost has passed in late spring. Prefers average well drained soil. Here is my plan: January 15, sow in pots and place outside of the sun. Cover with a bit of snow if available, to keep soil from drying out. March 1, bring indoors. May 1 put outside to harden off, then transplant soon after.
Links: Wiki
Sources:
The Royal Horticultural Society New Encyclopedia of Herbs and Their Uses (RHS)
Planting: Seed Savers says to sow seeds indoors just beneath surface of soil. Success is greatly improved if seeds are placed with soil into a plastic bag and refrigerated for 4-6 weeks. Once removed from the cooler, place in an area that is between 55-65F. Plant out after danger of frost has passed in late spring. Prefers average well drained soil. Here is my plan: January 15, sow in pots and place outside of the sun. Cover with a bit of snow if available, to keep soil from drying out. March 1, bring indoors. May 1 put outside to harden off, then transplant soon after.
Links: Wiki
Sources:
The Royal Horticultural Society New Encyclopedia of Herbs and Their Uses (RHS)
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